14-17 June 2023
It was my first time joining the massive gathering at this little corner of Copenhagen on the island of Amager, next to Reffen, at this time of year. Up until now, Sweden Rock Festival had always been my go-to destination for rock and metal festivities. As I rode the bus on the way to the venue, I was wondering how different the two festivals would be (they were both organised by Live Nation), making this the unconscious main activity of the journey. However, the possibility to simply take the bus and return home afterwards became a key factor in choosing Copenhell for 2023.
Reffen had undergone a slight transformation for the festival, with designated parking areas for bikes, rerouting for the bus, and the main road leading there already bustling with traffic. After hopping off the bus, I promptly followed the signs to the entrance, collected my passes, and hurried towards the general entrance, avoiding the VIP/press area which seemed more crowded.
As I entered, the setting immediately set the tone with a hellish church and two Nazgûls, embracing the theme of ‘Hell in Copenhagen.’ I hurried past them to explore the venue before Motley Crue took the main stage; I only had an hour left.
The main entrance area was filled with shops, restaurants, and a water corner. To the right, a forest path led to the hidden Gehenna stage. Crossing the forest opened up to the Pandæmonium stage, located next to the surprisingly interesting Copenhell Con (more on that later). On the left, the tunnel entrance led to the V.I.P. Area – or R.I.P. In Copenhell jargon -, offering a panoramic view of the venue and the Pandæmonium stage. From there, we could only see the back of Helviti, Copenhell’s main stage. Walking further, one could reach the Merchandise area, organized in a tidy and fenced queue, making casual window shopping much of a fuss, but actual shopping a breeze.
Heading east from there, Smadreland awaited, where one could contribute to demolishing old cars or enjoy a hot or cold bathtub. Though I didn’t participate, it was entertaining to watch someone’s valiant but futile attempt to make a hole in the car’s roof. Most of the participants were content removing the plastic decor from the interior.
Finally, I reached Helviti, and surprisingly, the pit was not crowded yet, though it filled up as the show progressed. A countdown, a breaking news report that only music would be broadcast for the next few hours, and then Motley Crue took the stage for a 90-minute party. The show was everything one would expect—four ugly men, two beautiful girls, a long list of hits – kicking off with “Wild Side”, “Shout at the Devil”, “Looks that Kill”, “Dr. Feelgood”, “Same Old Situation”, and closing with “Kickstart My Heart” – , and an wild crowd, with a consistent flow of crowdsurfers from the back to the front.
Interacting with the audience, Nikki Sixx brought a girl from the first row on stage and whom, as she was there with her parents, he encouraged to say “Fuck Bon Jovi”. Tommy Lee asked for some audience participation and was rewarded with enthusiasm and lifted shirts. Overall, it was a fantastic show, although I felt the sound could have been better, but it improved as the performance went on.
With the sun still up and the day far from over, it was time for one more round at the festival grounds. I enjoyed the literal smoking view (as everywhere people were smoking) of the Copenhagen Hell from the top of the dam that separated the festival grounds from the sea.
At precisely 21:30, Def Leppard took the stage with “Take What You Want,” delivering a powerful performance with their setlist filled with hits. Their sound was sharp and clear, offering a stark contrast to Motley Crue’s coarse and loud performance. With both bands co-headlining their common tour, it was no surprise that Def Leppard’s energetic “best of” performance concluded at 23:00.
Leaving the festival venue, I encountered a traffic jam in both directions, and the queue for the public buses was long, so I started walking towards the cicy center, thinking how amazing the bands were that day, and maybe that next time I should take my bike too…
And so did I for the last day of the festival. Opting to embrace the Danish way, I took the S-tog (train), spotting fellow metalheads with their wristbands and relevant t-shirts. Everything went smoothly, except for a minor bike jam near the festival grounds. I hurriedly parked my bike and rushed to the Helviti stage. Thankfully, Billy Gibbons and the BFGs hadn’t started playing yet.
But only a minute later, they came on stage and began with ZZ Top’s “Got Me Under Pressure” and the groovy “More-More-More” from Billy Gibbons’ latest solo album, “Hardware.” With only brief pauses between songs, the band played for 55 minutes, delighting the audience with some solo material and mostly ZZ Top hits, culminating in “La Grange.”
I intended to visit Copenhell Con next, but the band playing at the Pandæmonium stage grabbed my attention. Angelo Moore’s spirited vocals and saxophone performance, combined with Fishbone’s unique blend of punk, soul, rock, and metal, attracted a sizeable crowd.
Copenhell Con was a different world—busy yet relaxed, filled with cartoons, arcade games, board games, and science fiction. Various talks and events were scheduled throughout the festival, and I found myself engrossed in a fascinating presentation about a satanic hoax that fooled the Vatican. Despite the increasing crowd caused by the rain, I decided to step outside and make my way to Helviti for Ghost’s performance.
Ghost lived up to their reputation with an impressive stage setup and striking costumes for Papa Emeritus and the Nameless Ghouls. Their catchy, melodic, and satanic-themed metal sound captivated the audience.
Deciding to experience Guns N’ Roses from the front row meant bracing myself for a wait, and I endured a couple of hours (not to mention unexpected delays) while Mother Nature played her part, soaking us and then allowing us to dry up just in time for the show to begin. Finally, after what seemed like an eternity, probably the most expensive reunion ever graced the stage with a short but intriguing video intro, setting the tone for the night ahead.
Having seen them about a year ago, I thought I knew what to expect. However, from the moment they started performing, it was evident that this band had undergone a remarkable transformation since their reunion. The time together seemed to have worked in their favor, as they appeared to be much tighter and more cohesive than before.
Axl Rose, known for his enigmatic persona, surprised the audience by being more communicative this time, sharing a personal story that added a more personal touch to the performance. Despite the anticipation, there were either no pauses between songs or only brief breaks, keeping the energy flowing smoothly and the crowd engaged throughout.
The musical prowess displayed by Guns N’ Roses was nothing short of impressive, with no mistakes made during any of the mind-blowing solos. They treated us to a full three hours of non-stop rock, leaving no room for disappointment. The band’s dynamism was contagious, and the crowd responded with pure adoration and enthusiasm, forming an unforgettable atmosphere of excitement and camaraderie.
Special moments during the concert added to the magic, like the grand piano during “November Rain” (though Slash refrained from performing his famous solo while standing on it) and “Knockin’ On Heaven’s Door” starting with a snippet of Alice Cooper’s “Only Women Bleed.”
Additionally, the silent dedication of “Civil War” to Ukraine showed the band’s awareness and connection to global events. Finally, the band sang “Happy Birthday to You” to Dizzy Reed.
While the show was undoubtedly outstanding, a few minor low points included Duff McKagan singing another Stooges song, “T.V. Eye,” and Axl’s voice momentarily fluctuating between highs and lows, sounding as if the microphone was malfunctioning. Nonetheless, these minor imperfections did little to overshadow the overall greatness of the concert.
In conclusion, despite the waiting and the unpredictable weather, witnessing Guns N’ Roses up close was an experience of a lifetime. Their growth as a band since reuniting was evident in their electrifying performance, making it an unforgettable night filled with rock anthems, soulful ballads, and a connection between the band and their adoring fans that was nothing short of magical.
George Anasontzis
